It is said that the golden age of the British motoring holiday was in the 1930s, when car ownership had rocketed to around two million.
Almost a century on, it’s still possible to enjoy something of that same experience on today’s roads – and especially when one’s journey involves a final destination in majestic Northumberland.
This is the landscape of Hadrian’s Wall, Hexham, Vindolanda, and Beamish.
It is also home to Slaley Hall, an Edwardian former hunting lodge that is now a popular and busy hotel, golf and spa resort set in 1,000 acres of moorland and forest.
My wife Danni and I enjoyed a most restful overnight stay at Slaley Hall taking in spa treatments and sauna, drinks, an evening meal, and a rejuvenating night’s sleep in a regal (and very comfy) four-poster bed that would have made Henry VIII jealous.
One of the nine treatment rooms at Slaley Hall (Image: Newsquest)
Our spa stay included two 50-minute treatments, which could be split into two 25-minute sessions.
Slaley Hall boasts nine treatment rooms including a dual suite in which guests can enjoy facials, rituals, and full body massages.
Danni chose the relaxing face and back ritual, and Joanna was her therapist.
Danni said: “The back scrub felt delicious and the very warm towels used to wipe off the scrub felt amazing and prepared my back for what was to come.
“Gorgeous smelling oils were used as Joanna used her magic hands to pry out the stress from my back and shoulders.
“The face massage helped dislodge a bit of discomfort I’d been having with my sinuses and when she moved up to my temples and the crown of my head it was quite an effort not to nod off.”
The relaxing treatment suite at Slaley Hall (Image: Newsquest)
I opted for two mini-treatments: a rejuvenating deep tissue tension-ease massage, and a relaxing shoulder, neck, and scalp massage.
Accompanied by subdued lighting, ambient music, and massage therapist Donna, who avoided unnecessary chat to work in silence, it equated to 50 minutes of sheer bliss where tense and knotted muscles were set free.
That, in itself, was worth the journey north.
Danni and I followed up with a refreshing swim in the pool, a blast of heat in the sauna, and then drinks before heading back to our room in the original old hall – the site has been much expanded – with views of the gardens and golf course.
As well as the four-poster and two large flatscreen TVs – one facing the bed – the spacious room included a traditional bathtub by the window.
That proved enticing.
There are two restaurants: Hadrian’s Brasserie, and the Claret Jug.
We chose the more formal brasserie for dinner, served by its attentive and friendly staff.
To start Danni selected pan fried scallops with Romanesco, confit red pepper, smoked paprika oil, and sunflower seeds.
Main course was sea bass from the specials board.
Her verdict: “Sadly, the Vietnamese soft-shell crab was off the menu, so I went with the scallops sitting on Romesco, which was bright and tasty, and the scallops were well cooked.
“For my main I plumped for the special, which was sea bass sitting on a bed of gnocchi and mussels which was delicious though definitely needed a bit more salt.”
Danni’s pan fried scallops with Romanesco, confit red pepper, smoked paprika oil, and sunflower seeds (Image: Newsquest)
I chose as my starter miso garlic oyster mushrooms on toast: creamed oyster mushrooms, brioche, and crispy tarragon.
Main course was chicken, ham, and leek pie with creamed mash, charred Tenderstem broccoli, carrot, and thyme gravy.
This was delicious, wholesome food at its very best in a lovely environment where the fellow diners included businessfolk, conference attendees, fellow spa lovers, and people from the locality.
After dinner there was time for a cold drink and a bath in the old-fashioned tub positioned by the window in the room.
Tony’s chicken, ham and leek pie (Image: Newsquest)
Climbing into the steaming water felt simultaneously quite decadent and perfectly normal.
That, on top of the massage, jacuzzi, and sauna, left this middle-aged body feeling languid.
Relaxed is an understatement.
Our break concluded with a lazy Sunday morning where, for once, we didn’t need to set the alarm to meet the dawn.
Alas, we didn’t take to the golf greens – I’m more of a caddy than a player – but as we headed down for breakfast, we could see golfers already out on the two 18-hole courses.
The fine weather was surely a bonus.
The breakfast offering included pastries, cereal, yoghurt, fruit, porridge, pancakes, Belgian waffles, eggs benedict, avocado, chilli and poached egg, and even a glass of Buck’s fizz.
Danni and I both opted for a full English from the generous serve yourself counter – and who wouldn’t?
I’ll remember Slaley Hall for the three Rs: rest, relaxation, and rejuvenation.
It was just what a tired body needed.
What’s more, the drive home was like motoring into the past… at least for a while.
Thoroughly recommended.
Slaley Hall Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort
Coal Road, Hexham, NE47 0BX
Tel: 01434 673350
Web: https://www.slaleyhallhotel.com/
QHotels Autumn Sale – Save 20 per cent on Bed & Breakfast stays
- Booking dates: Until October 22, 2026
- Stay dates: October 2 – December 30, 2026
- Excludes: December 24, 25, and 26
- Includes: Overnight stay with buffet breakfast
- Participating hotels: Ashford, Chesford, Slaley Hall, Westerwood, Crewe Hall, Oulton Hall, Telford Hotel, Park Royal, Stratford Manor, Norton Park, Forest Pines, Oxford Belfry, Cheltenham Chase, Belton Woods, and Cambridge Belfry
- Offer is available on new bookings only and is subject to availability, with a limited number of rooms available at the promotional rate.
- Saturday stays are subject to a minimum two-night stay.
- The offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other discount, offer, or promotion.
- The rate is fully pre-paid and non-refundable/non-transferable.