Forest York restaurant review: my verdict after 5 years away by MAXINE GORDON
THE first and last time I dined at Forest was a very special occasion.
We were just coming out of another Covid lockdown, people had been jabbed, and I was celebrating a wedding anniversary.
I knew this restaurant, in York's bustling Low Petergate, had an outdoor, albeit slightly covered, dining area, so we booked that.
The evening was memorable, although perhaps more for that wonderful sense of freedom and getting back to the 'new normal' after the enforced hibernation of lockdown.
The food and drink experience itself has faded from my memory – which makes me reflect that it must have been OK. If it had been at any other end of the scale (namely, terrible or fantastic) it would have seared my memory.
So, five years on, a return date was long overdue: would Forest make any more of an impression this time?
Forest restaurant in Low Petergate, York
I booked online late on a Sunday afternoon for a table for three at 7.30pm.
I was glad I had, because when we arrived a waiter was turning away a couple, announcing the restaurant fully booked.
Surely a promising start.
Inside, the restaurant is rather warren-like, with various rooms, and nooks and crannies, giving it plenty of character. We were shown to a large table – easily big enough for a party twice our size. If you want something more cosy, ask for one of the booths,
There is a warm orange hue throughout the restaurant – great perhaps for atmosphere, but it did lend my photos of our food a rather strange tangerine tinge. Apologies!
We ordered drinks – a glass of Prosecco for me (decently priced at £6.50), a large white wine for my mum (£9.50) and a pint of the house cask ale for my husband (£5.25).
The menu was short enough not to overwhelm but full of appetising-sounding goodies – it would be a struggle to make a choice.
Notes of interest among the eight starters included the goat's cheese croquettes (£9), and the rosemary focaccia with tapenade (£8).
Our choice – to share – was the intriguing-sounding 'Yorkshire whole hog' at (£10) and the heritage tomatoes (£9).
The 'whole hog' was a trio of pork delicacies: a cider-braised ham hock bon bon, black pudding, and pressed pork belly.
The pork belly wasn't quite what I'd expected and was a little dry for my taste, appearing more like a chunk of well-cooked pork chop than a fat-layered piece of pork belly. The black pudding fared better, nicely cooked and still soft in the middle.
But the star was undoubtedly the bon bon, a beautifully crisp ball filled with salty strands of ham hock, which worked exceptionally well with the accompanying apple purée. The latter, rather nostalgically, reminded me of the apple filling in a Mr Kipling pie.
The tomato starter also wasn't quite as I had imagined from the menu description: yes there were tomatoes, yes there was pesto, yes there was feta cheese, but we could not pick out the expected dark, salty tapenade. This was a shame because it was one of the reasons I selected the dish. The three fingers of lightly toasted focaccia on the side were a delight, so made up for some of the disappointment.
Heritage tomatoes starter at Forest
I would happily have mentioned both points to the team if we'd been asked how everything was. Service was perhaps the weakest aspect of our visit: we needed to attract someone's attention to order another round of drinks and, after waiting at the table towards the end of the evening for an age, eventually went to the till to pay.
That said, the restaurant was busy and our main courses brought the meal firmly back on to more positive ground.
Swaying between the cauliflower wings or the salmon with 'crushed' potatoes, pea puree and samphire, I chose the fish (£18).
Salmon main course at Forest
It was a generous portion and the salmon was enjoyable. I wasn't so keen on the cold pea purée beneath it, although I suspect that was an intentional part of the dish rather than a mistake. For me, it didn't work particularly well alongside the hot elements.
The potatoes also varied in temperature, with some hot and others more lukewarm. The entire plate, however, was certainly substantial and left me too full for a sweet.
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My husband toyed with the rump steak (£26) but chose the house burger in the end (£18). This was tasty, and clearly home made. It came with a small bucket of chunky chips, a cup of coleslaw, both of which were OK rather than a highlight.
House burger main course at Forest
Happily, Mum had no complaints with her crab thermidor (£24) – Whitby crab topped with béchamel sauce and baked in the shell. She really loved it, especially dipping her chips into the rich, salty and sweet goey concoction.
Crab thermidor main course at Forest
We passed on dessert, but if you still had room, the choice was between a fruit crumble, a sticky toffee pudding, dark chocolate fondant, vegan chocolate mousse, or a vanilla creme brulee (all priced between £7-£9).
So, did Forest make more of an impression on my second visit?
Yes, although it was something of a mixed experience.
I really liked the ambition of the menu and there were some excellent moments, particularly that ham hock bonbon, the focaccia and Mum's crab thermidor.
Other elements didn't quite hit the same heights for us, and the service could have been a little more attentive on the night we visited.
But there was enough that we enjoyed to remind me why a busy Forest continues to draw diners through its doors on Low Petergate.
Reviews are independent and meals paid for by The Press
Fact file
Forest, at Galtres Lodge Hotel, 54 Low Petergate, York
T: 01904 622478
Verdict:
Food: Interesting menu, mostly good food
Ambience: Warren like, can find a cosy spot if you ask!
Value: Fair
Service: Would have liked more of it!