WHEN colourful Art Deco buildings started to appear in 1930s Bombay, the new look was seen as a stylish defiance of the established order.
The modern designs, led by young Indian architects, brought new glamour to the city, and the hint of a brighter future.
Nearly a century later, UK-based Indian restaurant chain Dishoom celebrates this creative spirit of progress and reinvention with its first venue in Leeds.
Located between the Victoria Gate and Victoria Quarter on Vicar Lane, newly-opened Dishoom Leeds brings the bustle of Bombay’s old Irani cafes to the city, along with Dishoom’s rich storytelling.
Open all day, it offers ‘Bombay comfort food’ for breakfast, lunch and dinner. As well as Dishoom favourites such as the Bacon Naan Roll, the Leeds café debuts three exclusives created for the city - Malvani Lamb Curry, the signature Samir’s Vice cocktail and Kohra IPA, brewed with Northern Monk.
The decor is beautiful; Art Deco elegance with a funky twist. Vintage decorative lights, sourced from old Bombay and lovingly restored, sit alongside bespoke lighting, casting a warm glow over chic pink and pale green walls and cosy booths, with a boujee wooden bar taking pride of place.
Each Dishoom café has locally inspired details and in Leeds the ‘House Rules’ have a playful nod to the city: ‘No exchanging corn for meals’ refers to patrons who once bartered corn for their supper, while ‘No stealing gold bar’ is a reference to one of Bombay’s strangest tales - the day gold fell from the sky.
The 'house rules' at Dishoom Leeds. TARAN WILKHU
(Image: Taran Wilkhu)
One April day in 1944 smoke was seen rising from British warship SS Fort Stikine in Bombay’s Victoria Dock. A fire, said to be have been sparked by a discarded cigarette, took hold and the ship exploded - sending gold bars flying across the city.
The ship contained a secret cargo of cotton, oil and gold ingots. Some of the gold was found over a mile away, but much of it was never recovered. Legend has it that some of it was melted into gold bangles which found their way into South Asian jewellery shops in Leeds... Dishoom Leeds re-imagines the fortune made from the gold bars; guests can discover subtle references in glamorous mid-century details through the interiors and artwork.
Details in the decor are a nod to old Bombay
(Image: Taran Wilkhu)
I was already seduced by the decor and storytelling before I’d even sat down to eat. So what of the food?
Dishoom co-founder Shamil Thakrar says this is a space “that celebrates the spirit of old Bombay while giving guests somewhere to gather, share food and make memories together”.
Grills, biryanis, curries and light bites fuse delicious flavours
(Image: Taran Wilkhu)
The menu journeys through old Bombay’s cafés, grills, street stalls and family kitchens. and Chicken Ruby curry are generously-sized feasts made for sharing among dining groups, featuring dishes such as Keema Pau, Chicken Berry Britannia, Roomali Roti and Pistachio Kulfi.
The café is open daily from morning until late, serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, cocktails, chai and late-night tipples. It’s a walk-in, with some reservations available. The new menu additions pay homage to the Leeds food and drink culture and the spirit of sharing at the heart of Dishoom. Malvani Lamb Curry is inspired by the Konkan coast of Maharashtra, where “coconut palms sway above fishing villages and families feast on spice-laden curries”.
‘Lunch and Later’ options include Chole Puri Halwa (chickpeas, sweet semolina, pickles and “one giant, crackled, puffy puri”), Paneer Roomali Roll and Bun Maska Chai, an Irani cafe classic. A range of biryanis and curries include the popular Chicken Ruby and House Black Daal, cooked for 24 hours until dark and rich, as well as Murgh Malai (chicken steeped overnight in garlic, ginger and cream), Mutton Pepper Fry and Awadhi Jackfruit Biryani. Among the grills are Dishoom Chicken Tikka, saffron cauliflower and gunpowder potatoes.
There's a relaxed vibe at the newly opened restaurant
(Image: Taran Wilkhu)
We tucked into a series of small plates; delicious vegetable pakoras, samosas, bhajis and prawn koliwada in a tangy, crunchy batter, perfect for chutney dipping. My favourites were vada pau - a veggie fast food delight of deep-fried spicy mashed vegetables in a mini bread bun - and bite-size chunks of paneer, in a fragrant herby coating. Other taster treats included chilli chicken and house chaat, fusing spicy, sweet, and salty flavours.
The menu offers 'Bombay comfort food' for breakfast, lunch and dinner
(Image: Taran Wilkhu)
Spanning two floors, the vibe is relaxed and chic, with a delightful old-school touch. It’s cool and elegant; Art Deco charm with a funky menu. We were greeted with a warm welcome from the staff, who were friendly and efficient.
There’s a vibrant cocktail bar feel, with the drinks menu featuring such choices as Baba’s Sesame Espresso Martini, Bombay Billini and Kohinoor Mojito, as well as wines and beers. Or settle in with a cup of house chai.
Samir’s Vice takes playful inspiration from the Miami Vice cocktail - transformed into something altogether more elegant. Tart pineapple and sweet strawberry meet Takamaka Seychelles Rum Blanc with soothing coconut milk - delicious. Furnished with a dehydrated pineapple wheel, it’s a refreshing, fragrant cocktail.
Samir's Vice is a playful, fruity cocktail
(Image: Taran Wilkhu)
If beer’s more your thing, Dishoom has partnered with Northern Monk to create Kohra IPA, brewed to accompany the bold food flavours. A crisp West Coast session IPA, its lively citrus, pine and bright zest notes make it a perfect companion to smoky grills and rich curries.
Says Arun Kumar, Dishoom’s Executive Chef: “Every Dishoom menu tells the story of Bombay through its food. For Leeds, we wanted to celebrate the dishes our guests return for, while creating a handful of new ones that belong especially to this café. Our collaboration with Northern Monk feels like a joyful meeting of two neighbourhood favourites.
“Like the Irani cafés that inspired us, we hope this becomes a place where people gather often over breakfast, for family feasts, or simply because there is time for one more cup of chai.”
- Visit dishoom.com