Food and cocktails at Sora, Malmaison, York – review by MAXINE GORDON
SCORCHING temperatures have made outdoor and roof-top bars and beer gardens the place to go this summer in York.
So as York baked in another summer heatwave, we planned to make the most of it and booked a table at one of the city’s best roof-top spaces – the Sora 'sky bar' on the roof of Malmaison hotel.
If you haven’t visited this spot yet – be sure to get it on your to-do list.
You can have a drink, or food, or both – while taking an unrivalled panoramic view of York.
From the large roof terrace, it’s fun to play ‘spot the York landmarks’; the Minster looms large, but you can also see Foss Island's tower, York Magistrate’s Court and – with clear skies – the White Horse at Kilburn.
The Japanese-inspired food and drink menu at Sora is nicely brief, affording you all the more time to take in the fabulous setting and catch up with your date or friends.
I was there with one my oldest York girlfriends and we each ordered from the Sora cocktail menu: an Aperol (£12) for my friend while I chose the signature peach and lychee spritz (£14), suggested by our attentive waiter.
Cocktails at Sora roof top bar in York. Photo - York Press
This unusual cocktail was a great choice. Pretty as a picture, its soft pastel colours contrasted with the vivid orange of the Aperol (which matched the bright orange sun as it burned bright as sunset arrived).
It tasted delicious, with just a slight note of peach; it wasn’t overly sweet as some cocktails can be, and I’d recommend it.
My friend asked for a good 30 minutes before we ordered our food – which gave us time to enjoy our drinks and swap all our news.
The menu at Sora celebrates all the flavours of Asia. Dishes are delivered on small plates, perfect for sharing. There is a range of sushi, seafood, and vegetables, as well as small skewers featuring meat and fish.
It is a small menu, but also a balanced one, with a variety of price points and ingredients to suit both the cautious and the confident diner.
To give you a flavour of what is on offer, you can select charred edamame beans or shrimp crackers with avocado and wasabi, nigiri, sashimi or sushi rolls, as well as a selection from the robata grill such as sticky pork belly, chicken yakatori or charred octopus. Tempura tiger prawns and katsu chicken thigh bites are also listed to tempt you.
My friend is pescatarian, so we agreed to choose dishes we could both try. I’ve eaten at Sora several times before and enjoyed many dishes on the menu, tending to gravitate towards chicken, prawn, and beef choices. So this time I welcomed the chance to try something different.
Top of that list came the king oyster mushroom (£8) from the robata grill. A meaty mushroom, this lends itself to being presented on a skewer. It came with a side dip of coriander mayo with crispy onion. Despite this addition, I found it rather bland and wasn't keen on the flabby texture; safe to say, it's not one I'd order again.
King Oyster Mushrooms at Sora in York. Photo - York Press
But some you win and some you lose and our next choice was a belter – the crispy fried spiced tuna (£14 for six pieces) from the sushi rolls selection. Laid out on a long glazed dish, each roll of sushi rice was encased in a crispy coating and topped with little jewels of fresh tuna held together in a light spicy sauce. They tasted decadent yet nutritious, and were filling too, so take note if you are ordering a large selection from the menu.
Having dipped my culinary toe in unchartered waters, I returned to safer shores with my absolute favourite Sora dish – the sensational ‘KFC’ – Korean Fried Cauliflower (£8).
It’s one of the tastiest things you can eat in York: small florets of cauliflower, with a very light batter, covered in a rich, sweet and spicy sauce, topped with chilli slices and a sprinkle of coriander.
'KFC' at at Sora in York. Photo - York Press
Do yourself a favour and order a portion for everyone at the table; they will thank you for it (and best of all you will get to eat the entire bowl yourself!).
And if you get the KFC, it's almost obligatory to have the Asian slaw (£4) and hand cut fries (£5).
The three of them make a meal in their own right, and if you ordered this trio with one drink, a trip to Sora would not break the bank.
However, if you are hungry, or in a grazing mood with a gang of mates, you can give the Sora menu a really good going over. If you do, let us know your favourites – and confirm that the KFC is still as good as we experienced.
Besides the cocktail menu, there is a good wine list, with prices to suit all pockets.
Crispy tuna sushi rolls at Sora in York. Photo - York Press
We couldn’t decide between two bottles that promised to go with a summer evening: an Italian rosé (£8.50 for 175ml/£11.25 for 250ml or £32.50 a bottle) or the Portuguese Vinho Verde (£7.50 for 175ml/£10 for 250ml or £28.50 a bottle).
And so our waiter brought us a small glass of each to taste and compare. It was an easy decision, the rosé was the palest pink I’d seen and was wonderfully dry, but the Vinho Verde was the clear winner, delivering a punch of fruit as well as that trademark effervescence that makes it such a perfect summer drink: ideal for a perfect summer night.
As the sun disappeared, it was still light, but the temperature noticeably dropped. There are blankets available allowing customers to stay out and enjoy the terrace experience, but we decided to move indoors for a final cocktail and to enjoy the live music, a fixture of Saturday nights at Sora.
Sora at Malmaison York
A DJ, playing a great set list featuring dance classics from the 90s accompanied by a ‘rock’ violinist, was set up in the far corner of the inside bar.
To finish, we had an espresso Martini – but not any old espresso Martini – this was Sora’s coconut espresso Martini (£14). It was around 9.30pm (we’d arrived at 6.30pm – worth saying because we didn’t feel rushed nor was there a time limit on our table), so had decaf version.
They were utterly delicious – cold, creamy, with the coconut adding just the right note of sweetness that made it a suitable alternative to a dessert. My friend had been sceptical, but was won over at the first sip.
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If that doesn't sound like your bag, and you still like to end your meal on a sugar high, Sora dessert options include a sweet chocolate cremeux; black cherry, honeycomb, and matcha stem ginger marshmallows; the almond crumb, chocolate sauce, passion fruit, and miso brûlée, or mochi ice cream.
The restaurant also has other menus – from a tasting to tapas menus as well as the great value lunch Bento Box option for £20 (not available on Saturdays).
Malmaison hotel - York
Definitely worth trying is its unique afternoon tea featuring a range of mini menu favourites. I reviewed this for The Press last year and can say it’s one of the best afternoon teas you can enjoy in York, especially if you want one with a twist.
And so our night was over – and another memorable evening at Sora.
With its rooftop terrace, inventive food and drinks menu, great service, Sora offers York something a bit different. It feels like you are on holiday, with a cool, beach-club vibe, especially on a weekend evening with live music.
In summary, if you are looking for a perfect summer night out in York, Sora is hard to beat.
Reviews are independent and meals paid for by The Press
Fact file
Sora at Malmaison, Rougier Street, York
T: 01904 946060
W: www.malmaison.com/locations/york/sora/
Verdict:
Food – tasty small plates, don’t miss the ‘KFC’
Drink – imaginative cocktail menu and good wine list
Service – attentive and professional
Value – Expensive, but worth it for location, menus and service